Description
Berthier Terre de Silex 2022 comes with a warning. It’s Sauvignon Blanc but not as you might expect. If you like big “blowsy” Sauvignons that re so popular in the UK, this is not it because Clément & Florian Berthier Coteaux Giennois Terre de Silex 2022 to give it its full name is a really elegant, subtle style of Sauvignon from the Loire Valley. A previous vintage of this wine took me aback when I first tasted it blind. I loved it but to be honest I wasn’t really sure what it was – I was surprised to find out it was 100% Sauvignon Blanc because I am not a big fan Sauvignon and yet I loved this wine.
Berthier Terre de Silex 2022 is one of a growing number of terroir-focused wines from the Loire. This wine region is increasingly recognising the diversity of its vineyards and reflecting the different terroirs in its wines. The Berthier brothers practise sustainable growing and intervene as little as possible in the winemaking to allow each of their wines to express its full potential. Each plot’s grapes are vinified separately to highlight the terroir specific to each plot. This wine comes from their Les Genets Gris plot whose 100% flint (“silex”) soils contribute to the complexity of the wine and its distinct gunflint aroma. On the palate there are subtle stone fruits and green apples with a dash of lime. The 2022 vintage was hot and harvest was early to prevent acidity in the wines from falling. This means a few subtle tropical fruit notes but a sharpness form the crisp lime notes on the long finish. Ageing the wine on its lees before bottling ensured a subtle creaminess and a beautifully smooth texture.
Berthier Terre de Silex 2022 is from Coteaux Giennois, a fairly new Loire wine appellation producing wines that are similar to Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé. I also have a few bottles left of the 2021 vintage. If you want to try a beautiful Sancerre, take a look at Florian Mollet’s Sancerre Tradition.