Women and wine In celebration of International Women’s Day here are a few facts and musings about women and wine. Is it true that women are better tasters than men? Can you generalise about women’s taste in wine? Do women spend more on wine than men? How do women buy wine? Do men and women swirl their wine in different directions? These are a few questions I ponder in this light-hearted article – I apologise in advance for any tongue-in-cheek comments and generalisations! Are women better tasters than men? At a trade fair last week I was chatting to someone about winemakers and he said he was surprised that there weren’t more female winemakers as women are better tasters than men.There is some scientific research to back this up; it shows that women tend to be more sensitive to aromas and flavours because women usually have a better sense of smell. This fits with the comments in my supertasters blog that women are more likely than men to be supertasters. It is believed that women’s better or more sensitive sense of smell could be due to the need to protect their children from harmful foods back in the day or simply to be able to recognise their children in a group. Regardless of whether you buy into this I strongly believe that most people can improve their wine tasting skills or their ability to recognise aromas and flavours in wine; my advice would be to taste with other people – who wouldn’t want to anyway? It is amazing how you can start to discern aromas and flavours that other people detect in wine and build them into your “aromas & tastes library”. And talking of learning… Female Wine Experts I used to work in a very male-oriented environment, the financial world. In the early years I was almost always the only woman in meetings. I’m pleased to say that that situation did change in more recent years before I saw the light and changed careers. When I joined the wine world I wondered what the male/ female split would be. Thinking about recent trade fairs, I would estimate the split at about 60% male attendees and 40% female but I would guess that most senior positions in wine companies are still filled by men. According to the 2021-2022 Annual Report of the Institute of Masters Of Wine there are currently 150 female Masters of Wine out of a total of 415, just over a third. The study programme has been open to both women and men since the mid 1950s; it was only in 1970 that the first woman gained her MW qualification. 1979 was the first year that equal numbers of women and men passed and in 2001 more women than men became MWs for the first time. In the last 5 years over 40% of new Masters of Wine were female so the proportion of female MWs to male is growing. There are 271 professionals worldwide who have received the title of Master Sommelier since their first exam in 1969 up to and including 2022. Only in 1984 did the first womean qualify as a Master Sommelier. There are no official figures but a quick check on the list of members suggests only c.15% are women, a figure which does not seem to be improving with time. This seems quite surprising to me as there are more and more female sommeliers in restaurants these days sharing their passion for wine. Perhaps some of them are choosing to take the MW exams instead. There are 12,000+ individuals worldwide who have gained the WSET Diploma in Wines and Spirits including yours truly but no information is given on the split between the genders. I am certain the percentage is higher than the Master Sommeliers. Women’s tastes in wine Is it true that women drink more white wine and sweeter wines than men or are these just urban myths?Sensitive tasters have a tendency to dislike strong flavours and so if we continue with the very broad generalisations about women being more sensitive to smells and tastes they are unlikely to choose to drink highly tannic or highly acidic wines and more likely to gravitate toward whites, rosés and sweeter wine. Of course there is also the influence of the wineries that specifically aim those sort of wines at women. I was a little disappointed this week to read that SJP will be launching a Sauvignon Blanc and a rosé wine; it seems a little stereotypical. Why not add a red wine to the mix SJP? How women buy wine There are studies that show that women drink more wine than men… and spend less on it. What I hear from womenat wine tastings backs this up as they say that they are more likely to buy wine in the supermarket than from specialist wine stores. This is possibly a sign that more women are doing the supermarket shop than men – and another opportunity for those marketeers to target the whites and rosés at women. And let’s not forget Prosecco and how successful its marketing campaign has been – once, like most bubbly, Prosecco was consumed to celebrate and now it’s an “everyday wine”. I have read some fairly patronising articles that suggest women just need to be educated about wine and then they would spend more on it. There is also a theory that women buy wine for “wine o’clock”, an almost every day glass of wine to chill out after a busy day whereas men are more likely to buy wines for dinner parties and to impress; there has been some research that suggests that men can be more swayed to buy wine by ratings e.g. Parker Points. But that is no surprise if we go along with the generalisation that men prefer more strongly-flavoured wines. It is well-known that Robert Parker preferred big, powerful wines, the antithesis of what many women choose to drink. Women winemakers Traditionally
Wine Tasting etiquette
Wine Tasting etiquette A fun look at wine tastings and how to tackle them A while ago I got myself into a Twitter discussion with Victoria Moore, author & wine editor for the Daily Telegraph, about the things we don’t like about trade wine tastings, so I thought it might be interesting to share them with you along with some other dos and don’ts at wine tastings. Whether you are an expert wine-taster or a novice, whether you attend walk-around wine tastings or hosted sit-down tastings and whether you taste 6 or 60 wines, there are certain things you might find useful to know. Trade wine tastings Just to set the scene, most trade wine tastings take place in large halls with sometimes hundreds of wines available to taste. The wines are lined up on tables and may be poured for you though sometimes they are self-pour tastings. Whilst I would love to spend my time wandering the vineyards of the world seeking out fantastic wines, trade tastings are more convenient. This way the wines come to you and are a great opportunity to taste a lot of wines in one place, although every palate has its limits. The etiquette for the wine trade fairs can be translated to more consumer-focused tastings which may be walk-around or, like the ones that I host, more often are sit-down tastings with someone talking you through the wines. so how to tackle them? Perhaps first and foremost find out the format Will it be walk-around or sit-down? Will someone be talking to you about the wines? Will the wines be poured out for you or will it be a self-pour tasting? Knowing in advance means you can be prepared. Don’t forget if it’s a walk-around to pick up a wine-glass and a tasting book and pen – if you are old school. Notes on your phone will do equally as well and there are also apps designed to allow wine tasting notes to be added. Don’t hog the wine tables (& don’t hassle the wine writer!) Victoria Moore’s main bugbear as I recall is people who want to talk to her, not necessarily about the wines, when she wants to focus and get on with her tasting; after all she is at work, not on a jolly. I don’t suffer with that recognition problem so I am left to get on with it but my biggest issue is people hogging the wine tables. I’m not the tallest person and when tastings are busy sometimes struggle to get myself to the front and to the wine. Come on guys – unless you are having a conversation with the winemaker about his or her wine, move away from the table once you have your sample so that others can taste the wine too. Introduce yourself Talking of winemakers, it can be useful to find out who is pouring your wine – so introduce yourself. That way you can avoid any embarrassing situations like the time I met Telmo Rodriguez without realising it was he who had poured my wine. Had I known I would have asked a lot more questions than I did. Shame as Telmo is one of the best winemakers in Rioja if not in Spain and is at the forefront of the changes happening in the region about which you can read more in my Demystifying Rioja blog post. Above you can see me discussing my least favourite grape with Anna Flowerday of TWR wines – and I am still smiling! Taste in the order you prefer Tradition has it at any consumer wine tastings that I have attended in the past that white wines are served first, reds second. In fact there is no particular reason for this and when I judge wine competitions the reds are usually tasted first followed by the whites and rosés. It’s a matter of personal preference although what does make sense is to move from lighter to heavier wines. Some days I taste whites first but usually I switch between reds, whites and rosés. If you have tasted a lot of wines and are finding it difficult to discern flavours anymore, for example after tasting a lot of heavy or particularly tannic reds, refresh your palate by having a sip of or washing your mouth with champagne or sparkling wine. It really works to neutralise your taste buds. For this same reason I taste sparkling wines after the still wines but, again, it’s a matter of personal choice. Except… leave the sweet wines until last The sugar in dessert wines seems to coat the mouth and at best mask flavours in any further dry wines. It can even make dry wine taste rather bitter. Don’t expect a clean glass for every wine It is usually expected that you use just one glass though I think you can be forgiven for taking a clean glass after the reds. It should be sufficient however to pour any last drops into a spittoon and if moving from red to white wines, swill the glass with water or with a touch of white wine to “clean” it. If self-pouring, don’t fill your glass A tasting is a tasting after all and one mouthful should be sufficient for you decide if the wine is a good one and if you like it. There is something irritating about finding out there is none of that wine that you have been looking forward to tasting all day. Hold your wine glass by the stem If you hold your wine glass by the bowl, you will warm up the wine inside – if red wine is served too warm it can taste a little flat and the alcohol may dominate making the wine seem out of balance. You may of course want to warm up the wine as wine that is served too cold can mask any complex aromas and flavours and emphasise the tannins. Ideally the wine served at the tasting
Wine Ratings; what’s the score?
Wine Ratings; what’s the score? A critique of the wine critics There are many people who review and score wine; I am often asked which of these wine critics I rate. So below are those wine critics at the top of my list and why together with some information on the different ways in which they rate wine. I include what I think are the minimum wine scores that you should look for from each of my selected wine critics if you wish to ensure that you are getting a really good quality wine. Plus some things to bear in mind when looking generally at wine ratings. Wines With Attitude’s approach to wine ratings Wines With Attitude Customers and regular readers of my wine blog posts will know that it is only after I have selected wines for the Wines With Attitude portfolio that I subsequently check whether the wines chosen have been reviewed and / or scored by wine critics. If they have I will include the scores and comments in order to give you, the consumers, more information upon which to base your wine-purchasing decision. I don’t necessarily always agree with the reviews or scores – but they are another opinion – and usually any differences in opinion are more a question of taste than of the wine’s quality. Things to bear in mind when looking at wine ratings Firstly, remember that not all wines are reviewed. So if you see a wine that has no rating it could simply be that the producer or importer of that wine has chosen not to submit it for review. Some wines are reviewed religiously each year but more often than not a producer will seek ratings when they are trying to build up their reputation and increase sales. Once they hit the big time, they often rely more on the reputation that they have built rather than on other people’s opinions. The fact that a wine does not have a score attributed to it does not mean that it falls in the “Avoid this wine at all costs” category. If you restrict yourself to drinking only those that have a score, you may miss out on some amazing wines. Wine ratings and reviews are considered by many to be crucial to the wine industry; they can make or break a wine’s reputation and ultimately its sales. The ratings and reviews given by wine critics carry a lot of weight, but it is interesting to note that they can differ greatly depending on who has written them. Critics such as Jancis Robinson, The Wine Advocate and Decanter all have their own unique styles and preferences when it comes to tasting and rating wines, leading to a range of scores for the same wine. So, what do these wine critics look for when rating wine? Jancis Robinson and team are known for their focus on balance and harmony in wines, favouring those that are elegant and restrained. The Wine Advocate or RobertParker.com perpetuates the reputation that founder Robert Parker had for favouring bolder, richer wines with more intense fruit flavours. Decanter takes a more holistic approach, considering factors such as the wine’s ageability, complexity, and typicity i.e. how well it represents its style or region. These differing perspectives and preferences can lead to vastly different scores for the same wine, leaving consumers to navigate a sea of conflicting opinions. Another factor that can influence wine ratings and reviews is personal taste. Although it should be wine quality rather than its taste that is judged, personal preference is bound to have an impact. At the end of the day, wine is a subjective experience, and what one person loves, another may hate. Critics are no exception to this rule – they have their own individual palates and preferences that will influence their ratings. Some may prefer certain grape varieties or regions over others, leading to higher scores for those wines. Others may be more inclined towards organic or biodynamic wines, giving such wines a higher rating even when other critics may find them lacking. Furthermore, there is the influence of external factors that can affect wine ratings and reviews. These can include factors such as the critic’s mood or health on the day they tasted the wine, the setting in which the wine was tasted, or even their personal relationships with the winery or winemaker. It is also important to say that sometimes the reviewers are tasting the wines straight from the barrel months before the wines are bottled and released – and as we know most wines of quality will change and improve over time – up to a point. Different wine reviewers & their ratings Jancis Robinson I have to confess that Jancis is my wine hero not least for forging a path for other women in the wine industry (see photo of me receiving my WSET Diploma from Jancis). I also rate the JancisRobinson.com scores because, like me, Jancis and her hugely experienced team (with at least ten Masters of Wine) are pretty strict markers in my view – though there are differences even between Jancis’ reviewers. Their maximum score is 20 points for a “truly exceptional” wine but I don’t remember the last time I saw a score from Team Jancis higher than 17.5+ points and even that level is quite rare. Bear in mind also that that 17.5 points equates to 87.5 points out of 100 which for some of the other wine critics is only just in the realms of a good wine. Other scores are: “19 – A humdinger18 – A cut above superior17 – Superior16 – Distinguished15 – Average, a perfectly nice drink with no faults but not much excitement” My view would be not to look below 15.5 points on the Jancis Robinson rating system. Wine Advocate Although you may not be familiar with the name Wine Advocate, if you are interested in wine you will almost certainly have heard of “Parker Points”.
How & why our wine tastes change
How & why our wine tastes change Think back to when you first started drinking wine – what was your preferred wine style then? My guess is something different from your current favourite style of wine. For me personally I suspect it was something like a medium-dry German white wine a la Blue Nun or a rustic Chianti from a raffia-covered bottle but that probably says more about my age and wallet than about my taste in wine. Whatever that first glass was, it certainly wasn’t my wine epiphany which came much later. But it does follow the start to most people’s wine journey, a trajectory which starts or is perceived to start with sweeter, lighter styles of wine, moves on to bigger, bolder wines and ends up with lighter, more elegant wines. But is this journey to a wider, more sophisticated range of wines a result of a change in our sense of taste as we get older – or is there more to it than that? Our tastes in food certainly change. It’s a standing joke in my family whenever anyone eats a banana that I pull a face of disgust and everyone chants “…but you used to love bananas…”.Personally I can’t remember eating them as a child but as I now can’t abide the smell, taste or texture of the darned things, it’s hard to imagine that I ever used to eat them let alone love them. But I will concede that it is possible because tastes do change as we age. I never used to be bothered about chocolate but I do now enjoy a piece every now and then. Similarly I used to dislike Sauvignon Blanc but now appreciate a glass of (really well-made) Sauvignon. Here’s my somewhat light-hearted look at how and why our tastes in wine change. How we taste wine (& other things) Going back to basics, when we taste anything, we pick up the five basic taste characteristics – sweet, salty, bitter, sour and umami – via gustatory or taste receptors, the taste buds. Messages are sent to our brains to help us detect these characteristics but it is commonly agreed that the sense of smell is actually more important for our ability to taste than our sense of taste. In fact it is only when our sense of smell is also used, via olfactory receptors in our noses, that we are able to detect specific food flavours like strawberry, blackcurrant, chocolate etc. Part of the joy of tasting good wine is swirling and sniffing the aromas. The texture and temperature of food and wine, our hormones, memories and emotions also play a part in our ability to determine flavours. Our sense of smell in particular also helps recall memories. For example you can improve your wine-tasting skills by practice, practice, practice – and that’s not just an excuse to drink more. The wider range of wines that you taste, the better you become at distinguishing and recalling tastes and flavours. Some people smell better than others – as some people are more sensitive to tastes than others – see my blogpost on supertasters. Some people for example are very sensitive to the compound behind corked wine, TCA; others can’t smell it at all. In order to be able to smell aromas in wine, swirling the wine in your glass. This helps the aromas rise to meet your olfactory receptors but also releases aromas as the air interacts with the wine. How our sense of taste in wine can change Several research projects have been undertaken to determine how our tastes in wine change, most recently by Sonoma State University*. They devised an unscientifically proven wine palate life cycle which suggests 4 stages of taste preferences in wine: a preference for medium dry or medium sweet white and rosé wines such as Riesling, Muscat, Prosecco dry white and rosé wines like Sauvignon Blanc and softer, lighter red wines like Merlot and Pinot Noir distinctive, more aromatic white varietals like Gruner Veltliner and Torrontes and bolder reds like Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon more distinctive wines like Barolo, Burgundies and dry Riesling. They tested this model with a survey which showed that 69% of participants said that their tastes in wine had changed over time – young adults were as likely as older participants to report a change – with 54% of participants reporting semi-sweet and sweet white and rosé wines as their initial preferred style and 61% giving their current preferred style as dry reds and slightly sweet red wines (the latter a relatively new category popular in the US where the survey took place). By the way this study was carried out in 2018 so interesting I think to see semi-sweet and sweet wines so high so recently. Of the 31% of respondent who reported no change in preference a “statistically significant percentage” were sweet and semi-sweet wine drinkers. Why our sense of taste changes What is the main reason or reasons for wine preferences changing over time for most people? Age seems to play a large part. We are born with 10,000 taste buds all over our mouths (not just on our tongues) and these regenerate every 10 to 14 days although apparently our ability to detect aromas develops and plateaus when we are still children. As we age the regeneration of our taste buds slows down and in fact some of the taste buds don’t grow back so we end up with fewer than we used to have. This can happen in our fifties and even earlier especially for women. In addition our taste buds shrink as we get older. If that’s not bad enough our sense of smell deteriorates as we get older too although it is thought at a later age than our sense of taste, from our sixties, and sadly the deterioration cannot be reversed. Some even argue that the deterioration starts at a much earlier age. And as a triple whammy saliva production also
Debunking 7 wine myths
Bursting the bubble of 7 wine myths I am amazed by some of the wine tales that I read or hear about to the extent that I sometimes wonder how much wine has been imbibed when the stories originated. Variations of these tales suggest that, like a game of Chinese whispers, some of them are being blown out of all proportion as they circulate. Like most urban myths, there is a danger that they can get in the way of reality or worse still spoil our enjoyment of wine. So it is time to debunk some of these wine misconceptions and burst the bubble of seven wine stories. Myth 1: Putting a silver spoon in the neck of a champagne or sparkling wine bottle will keep the wine fizzy Talking of bursting bubbles, let’s start with fizz. In order to keep your champagne or sparkling wine bubbly after opening a bottle what is most important is keeping it cold – and then it will only keep fizzy up to a point. Whether this long-standing story grew out of the belief that the spoon was trapping cold air in the bottle or through a misguided belief that silver holds some magical bubble-retaining characteristics, I don’t know. I have tested the cold air theory however and sparkling wine kept in the fridge will keep bubbly – but only for a couple of like the plastic stopper pictured which I find keeps the bubbles longer than the clunky metal stoppers which never quite seem to grip the bottle sufficiently. Myth 2: The heavier the bottle, the better the wine I have heard this myth uttered far too many times and I can’t imagine its origin. If you buy a wine in a heavier bottle, it is going to be a more expensive wine as you are simply paying for the heavier packaging – and there is no guarantee about the quality of the wine inside. If you compared two £25 bottles of wine, you would be getting poorer value in the wine in the heavier bottle because you, the consumer, are paying the extra cost of the heavier bottle. Also heavier bottles are not good for the environment; even if glass is recyclable think of all the extra weight on those lorries moving the wine around. And there’s the risk of back strain for those people that move cases around to get your wine to you! Myth 3: Screw caps mean cheap & nasty wine; quality wines are always sealed with a cork This is a myth which may have had some truth to it years ago. The original screw caps were certainly cheaper than corks and a way for producers of cheaper wines to keep their costs down. Producers of better quality wines looked down on the screw cap and preferred to keep using corks as a symbol of premium wine that would age better in bottle. Screw caps became synonymous with the lower end of the quality range and wines meant for drinking immediately. Since then however screw-off caps have come a long way; millions of pounds have been spent on technological advances such that wines with a screw cap can age and develop whilst in the bottle, just as well as a wine in a bottle sealed with a cork. New Zealand is a particular fan of the screw cap; just look at the fabulous wines of Auntsfield and TWR and they are all sealed with screw caps. In fact of all Wines with Attitude’s portfolio – which only contains good quality wines – about 25% are sealed with a screw cap. I know there will always be those who prefer the sound of a cork popping but don’t assume a wine under screw cap is not good because you could be missing out on some fabulous wines. The price may be a better indication of quality. I will write more about screw caps in another blogpost. Myth 4: Wine under screw cap cannot be corked Following on from Myth 3 some fans of screw caps say that a wine sealed with a screw cap can’t possibly be corked. But that is simply not true and shows a lack of understanding of that wine fault. To read more about corked wine, read my wine faults blog. In simple terms, the compound responsible for corked wine, TCA, is not just found on corks but can contaminate whole wineries. Myth 5: Thicker legs means a better quality wine Once you have swirled wine in your glass, the liquid dripping back down the inside of the glass is referred to as the legs or tears (rhymes with fears) – and you won’t believe the amount of argument that the cause of this phenomenon has raised in the wine industry over the years. They have been said to indicate either the quality of the wine or its sweetness but they are in fact an indication of the amount of alcohol in the wine. There is a detailed scientific explanation but to keep things short it’s all about surface tension forces between the alcohol and the water in the wine, the faster evaporation of the alcohol, the tension between the liquid and the glass changing and, of course, gravity. This only happens with multi-compound liquids – there are no legs in pure alcohol or in pure water. A higher concentration of alcohol will make wine slide down the glass more slowly but the difference is not huge; it is easier to see the alcohol content on the label of the bottle than by guessing it from the legs. Myth 6: Supermarket discounts A £10 wine that is discounted to £5 may look like a bargain but it is actually a £5 wine that is normally inflated to £10. This is a generalisation as the margins on more expensive wines are higher than on cheaper wines but it’s why I say to people, if you are going to buy wine from supermarkets, never buy at the
7 tips for buying wine online
7 tips for buying wine online We read frequent reports about how e-commerce in the UK is growing and that includes a trend amongst time-pressed wine lovers towards buying wine online. But there are some things to be aware of when looking at wine e-commerce and I don’t mean in this instance the large scale wine investment scams – I will write about wine fraud at a later date. I’m writing here about little tactics that wine retailers use online – and sometimes in store – to persuade you to buy their wines. I see these “tricks” used over and over again as I research wines for my website and look into the competition and they make my blood boil. At best, these practices are deceitful and dishonest. So if you are buying wine online make sure you follow the steps below. COMPARE APPLES WITH APPLES – OR CHABLIS PREMIER CRU WITH CHABLIS PREMIER CRU I don’t know why but some people seem to delight in telling me that they have found one of my wines cheaper somewhere else. Let’s set aside the fact that I don’t aim and can’t afford to be the cheapest in the market given that Wines With Attitude is a small but niche company that prides itself on its excellent customer service rather than on bargain basement prices (read the testimonials to see what customers think). What I usually find when I follow up on these claims is that the wines are simply not the same wines at all. Recently my Reyneke Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon was on a price comparison site with Reyneke Reserve Red; they are both red wines, both made by the fabulous South African producer, Reyneke, but completely different wines produced in different ways from different grapes and as a result in different price brackets. One region that can cause a lot of confusion in this respect is Burgundy. All Burgundy white wines are 100% Chardonnay but they can vary in quality depending for example whether they are “basic” Burgundy, village wines or single vineyard premier cru wines and depending on the producer (read my blog on Burgundy for more detail). In terms of the producer, there is confusion because of the way that the Burgundian vineyards have been split up over time under the Napoleonic Code and so you may find more than one producer of what looks like the same wine as it is from the same wider vineyard e.g. Chablis Premier Cru Les Vaillons is a vineyard split into different parcels owned by different producers. Some names are just confusing and, in this instance, I don’t think there is always an intention to confuse the wine consumer. For example I have seen Eperosa’s Stonegarden Grenache (out of stock) on sale outside the UK as Eperosa Stonegarden but there is also an Eperosa Stonegarden Shiraz. Stonegarden is the name of a single vineyard but the vineyard contains Grenache and Shiraz (and Mataro or Malbec) but the two wines mentioned are very different. These are just a few examples – rule 1 is to make sure you know exactly what it is you are buying. Of course all the detail about the wine should be explained in the description of the product. READ THE WINE TASTING NOTES – IF THERE ARE ANY & PERHAPS WITH A PINCH OF SALT Many wine retailers – and I mean MANY – simply put the wine producer’s wine tasting notes on their website or shelf. Nothing wrong with that perhaps but very often they are not labelled as the producer’s description and to be very honest some of them are a bit wishy washy and vague, others frankly quite weird. Here’s an example of a wine description from a fairly well-known brand, see what you think… “The ‘I’m so famous that there are children named after me’ wine. The wine that has the perfect mix of tropical fruit and spicy oak flavours that had the country in a frenzy longer than it takes to find the perfect LBD.” Some retailers pinch their wine descriptions from other merchants – I have had this happen to me several times. I was told by one of these retailers that I should be flattered; however they are profiting from my hard work and it can take a long time to put the tasting notes together. Grrr! And perhaps worst of all are the wine merchants who don’t include any description of the wine – now I will admit that sometimes my wine tasting notes are a little late to the website and sometimes my descriptions can be a bit wordy but since you can’t taste or smell the wine before buying it I figure that I should try to describe it as best I can. But really, no description at all?? Sadly I see this on a lot of wine websites. CHECK YOUR DATES Make sure the wine on sale is from the vintage that you are looking for because for most decent wines from most wine-producing regions there will be vintage variation. This is why I don’t automatically stock the next vintage of my wines but only add them if I have checked them out first to make sure they are as good as or better than the previous year. Not all wine companies do this. Worse though are the websites that don’t tell you the vintage at all, though fortunately they are few and far between. CHECK THE NUMBERS i.e. make sure that any validations of the wine are valid. I see this ruse too frequently. Putting a 95+ Parker Point rating or a Platinum medal from X or Y competition into a wine description can help sell wine. But sometimes when you dig deeper, you find out that the 95+ rating or platinum medal was for a previous vintage of the wine and the current vintage being sold was awarded “only” 89 points and a bronze medal. I see this practice used by a few winemakers
Where is your wine really from?
Where is your wine really from? WINE PROVENANCE: CLUES TO LOOK FOR ON THE LABEL You may not pay too much attention to the specific origin of your wine but many consumers are increasingly concerned about the provenance of their wine just as much as they are about their food. So, you would think that a wine label would tell you exactly where your bottle of wine is from, wouldn’t you? The country and wine region that the wine is from should surely be given, maybe even the specific vineyard that the grapes were grown in for a more upmarket wine? But all is not as it seems on the origin of wine on some wine labels. Read about clues to your wine’s provenance from the wine bottle label and misleading terms on wine labels to look out for. GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATIONS ON WINE LABELS – COUNTRY, REGION, SUB-REGION & VINEYARD All wine bottles should give some indication of the provenance of the wine inside. Using France as an example, what you may see on the label may just be the country as in Vin de France, the general region as in Vin de Bourgogne, the more specific region, sometimes a village area such as Gevrey-Chambertin or even a specific vineyard as in Gevrey-Chambertin La Romanée. All of these classifications are known in the EU as Geographical Indications (“GI”) or appellations except for the country level Vin de France which is used for wines without a GI. The equivalent for wines without a geographical indication in Italy and Spain is “vino”, in Portugal “vinho”, in Germany “Deutscher Wein” and in Austria simply “Wein”. This means that Vin de France for example may include wine from different regions of France, wines that have failed to meet appellation regulations or wines that the producer prefers to market by its grape variety rather than by its origin. These latter wines tend to be simpler, consistent brands at lower price points. In the EU there are two categories of GIs for wine: the general region level, e.g. Vin de Bourgogne, is known as a Protected Geographical Indication or PGI (logo on left) and the more specific geographical areas like Gevrey-Chambertin or Gevrey-Chambertin La Romanée are known as Protected Designations of Origin or PDOs (logo on right), essentially the appellations but the difference between the two is significant as you will see below. Wine bottle labels displaying the region of origin of a wine will not necessarily include the country of origin. Some French producers for example may deliberately avoid using France on their labels in case their wine is confused with a Vin de France. Many producers choose to focus on the wine region and the chateau or winery name and so you might be expected to know that Fixin is in France (in the Côte de Nuits subregion of Burgundy) for example. As a general rule, the more specific the location that a wine comes from, the better the wine is likely to be – and therefore the more expensive it is likely to be as well. A wine labelled with a specific vineyard name rather than just Vin de France should have been produced according to specific, tight regulations for that vineyard appellation. THE 100% “RULE” If you choose an EU wine from a PDO, like Gevrey-Chambertin or Gevrey-Chambertin La Romanée in our example, you can be sure that 100% of the grapes used for that wine will originate from the specific PDO area mentioned. It is like a guarantee for you when you want to know the provenance of your wine. You might expect that would be the case for all wines but in many countries regulations allow wine producers to declare a wine is produced in a certain region when only a certain percentage of grapes originates from that region or to state the wine is one vintage when it may be a blend of vintages or to advertise a wine as one grape variety when it may contain more than one. In the EU a PGI wine also known as IGP wines (the old vins de pays) must have only a minimum of 85% grapes originating from the region on the label, 85% of any grape variety declared on the label and 85% of wine from the vintage on the label. Fattoria di Sammontana Sangiovese Toscana IGT above (not currently in stock) could have 85% to 100% Sangiovese therefore; in fact it has the same blend of grapes, 90% Sangiovese and 10% Caniolo Nero, as it had when it used to be a Chianti DOC. I have focused so far on EU examples as these have more long-standing regulations; other countries are gradually adopting geographical indications but the rules are more diverse though several countries follow this 85% “rule” or similar. Like the EU PGI wines for example, Australian and New Zealand wines follow the 85% rule so a wine labelled as Australian Barossa Valley Shiraz 2019 need only contain 85% of grapes from Barossa Valley and only 85% need be from the 2019 vintage and only 85% need to be Shiraz. Wine producers may put 100% Chardonnay on the label if they want to erase any doubt about the contents of their wine. In Australia the geographical indication is not compulsory on the label which might indicate that a wine doesn’t have a minimum of 85% of wine from one region. Conversely it is possible to see a mix of geographical indications: according to Wine Australia, a wine produced from 83% Barossa Valley grapes, 13% Heathcote grapes and 4% Pemberton grapes would need to be labelled ‘Barossa Valley Heathcote’, Pemberton being excluded as it is below 5%. The same 85% rule applies to South African wine but if a winemaker chooses to state “Wine of Origin Franschhoek” or “WO Franschhoek”, then 100% of the grapes must come from Franschhoek or whichever production area follows or precedes Wine of Origin or WO. In the USA the minimum can be
15 signs that you’re a wine buff!
15 signs that you are a wine buff Regular readers of my wine blog will almost certainly have an interest in wine. The very fact that you are here reading this article must mean you too are probably an oenophile. Most of you will consider yourselves wine lovers or wine enthusiasts rather than simply wine drinkers but how many of you consider yourselves wine buffs, real afficionados, even wine obsessives? In this blogpost I provide some tongue-in-cheek clues that might suggest you are serious about wine or that you are getting bitten a little too excessively by the wine bug. WINE DRINKER, WINE LOVER OR WINE CONNOISSEUR? The bad news is that if you are a wine buff your wine bill will increase as you appreciate the difference between well-produced wine and the cheaper, more commercial plonk that most of us start off drinking. It saddens me to hear that the average price of a bottle of wine in the UK has RISEN to over £6. I appreciate that there are many people who cannot spend more than this on a bottle of wine – but, if you can afford to spend more, you should because, of that £6, £3.43 or 57% is made up of duty and VAT. Whereas if you pay £12 for a bottle of wine, ‘only’ 35% of that £12 is paid to the UK Government in duty and VAT, meaning that proportionately more has been spent on making (and marketing) the wine. I’m not saying that all £6 wine is rubbish – but you have a better chance of finding a great wine priced at £12 than you will of finding one at £6. And the better wines that you start to drink, the more you won’t mind splashing out on fabulous wines. On the other hand, as a wine buff, you may notice that you actually drink less wine as you start to appreciate the complexities of wine rather than just knocking it back. You will distinguish more nuances in the aromas, flavours and textures of the wines that you taste and savour them. Your wine rack will seem inadequate. You will keep adding layers to stackable racks – and filling them – or purchasing new wine racks to hold your growing collection of wines. You may even install a wine fridge and if fairly obsessive you will make sure that it has separate sections for red and white wines though this is not strictly necessary as long as you give yourself enough time for a chilled red wine to reach its optimum temperature after taking it out of the fridge. You will always hold your wine glass by the stem never by the bowl and you will not own stemless wine glasses which may look good on the dinner table but are completely impractical for a true wine buff. It is not a matter of wine snobbery as some think; there is a practical reason for holding the glass by the stem which is that it prevents you warming up your wine, especially important for white wine and champagne. An added bonus is that it keeps your wine glass free of greasy finger marks. There is an exception to this “rule” though and that is when you specifically want to warm up a wine that has been served too cold which may be one reason why a wine seems closed. You may subconsciously start to swirl every glass (or cup) put in front of you. At any trade fair, this is the first thing you will see wine professionals do whenever any wine is poured into their glass. It helps to open up a wine that seems closed i.e. when the aromas seem subdued. If you are not confident about swirling your wine when the glass is in your hand, try doing it whilst resting the glass on a table. Be careful if you start swirling your coffee or any other hot drink though! You only pour a small serving of wine rather than fill your glass to within 1 cm of the rim. You will know if you swirl as mentioned above that you cannot swirl a full or even half-full glass of wine without spilling it everywhere. The centrifugal action disperses the wine far and wide so keep the servings small. Every drawer in your kitchen will have a corkscrew – just in case you lose or break one. And you will almost certainly have several different types of corkscrew. In a similar vein, you will have a wide range of wine implements probably bought for you as presents from well-meaning relatives and friends. Wine savers, wine pourers, wine aerators, you name them, you’ll have them but will probably rarely use them. Subconsciously or consciously you will book holidays in major wine regions and make a point of visiting as many as you can in order to further your viti- and vini-cultural knowledge and to add to your wine appreciation. Friends will bring chocolates, flowers, in fact anything but wine when coming to your house. Those that do bring wine may have devious plans – see the next clue… So-called friends will take great delight in testing your blind wine tasting skills by expecting you to pinpoint which corner of which particular vineyard a wine is from, whether the grapes were hand- or machine-picked, the wine fermented in oak or stainless steel and what the wine-maker’s middle name is. They will then be disappointed when you don’t even get the country correct. You are automatically handed the wine list when dining out with friends – and then starts the agony… Do you choose something that you would really like to try or should you pick something you know your friends will be comfortable with? Dilemma! You become much more adventurous in your choices of wine, you are more open to trying new grape varieties and styles of wine – reputable wine merchants can be a great help with suggestions and in restaurants so too can sommeliers but see next clue…
Independent review of Wines With Attitude
REVIEW OF WINES WITH ATTITUDE It is always nice to receive good feedback about Wines With Attitude whether for its service, its products or for both. In fact any feedback is useful so that I can improve things for my customers, newsletter subscribers and followers. I was very flattered that this unsolicited review of Wines With Attitude is the first review of independent wine merchants written by Paul Howard of Wine Alchemy. Paul Howard writes on wine and related subjects and has received various wine awards over the years like the Food & Drinks Awards’ “Wine Education Expert Award 2017” and Best Wine Education Expert 2017 at the Global Excellence Awards. In his independent review of Wines With Attitude Paul writes “…the $64,000 question. Would I buy again from Wines With Attitude? The wines were excellent, and Lindsay’s earnt my trust, so absolutely. Do check it out.” Although I have taken the liberty of adding a few photos and updates in square brackets[…], the words below are Paul Howard’s: “INDIE WINE MERCHANTS – #1, WINES WITH ATTITUDE I’ve meant to start reviewing Independent Wine Merchants for some time. These specialist wine businesses may be bricks, they may be clicks, or they might be both. The first to feature here is a young company, Wines With Attitude. But first, a preamble. Why Independents are worth your time and money It has long been my belief that the independent wine retail sector is best for high-quality, interesting wines. Usually, these are also accompanied by excellent customer service. I say this in the knowledge of once being Contributing Editor for the ASDW magazine and buying from many. It’s how I prefer to buy wine in the UK. Obviously, some are better than others. All independents must have a talent for uncovering exciting wines and be friendly and approachable. Otherwise, they won’t survive, never mind thrive. Additionally, many of their wines come directly from the winegrower. It often means such wines would otherwise never be available. Hence I think independents are sources of far better and far more interesting wines. These are the places to discover quality, flavours and memories. Supermarkets democratised wine and helped turn us into a wine drinking nation in the past. Now they have too many mass-produced bland brands, and their ranges have shrunk considerably. At an indie, you’ll taste the difference (if you’ll pardon the pun). I don’t intend to cover every indie merchant as there are now, according to Wine Intelligence [now part of the IWSR], some 750 independents in the UK, many of which are listed here. Indeed, the number of independents has grown in the last ten years by 50%, mainly thanks to the internet. No longer a dying breed, this is once again a vibrant sector worth your trust and hard-earned. Some are traditional with a long history; some are young mavericks. All seek to offer a better alternative to the Big Four supermarkets and their ilk. My Motivation Time to be clear about my motivation for these reviews. These reviews are without financial rewards from those independent merchants. Rest assured that I’m writing because I’ve bought wine from them with my own money and enjoyed the customer experience. So any review is on merit, not because they paid me or wanted some specious advertorial. With that in mind, please read on. Wines With Attitude I first met Lindsay Cornelissen, who set up Wines With Attitude Ltd., while judging at the IWSC [International Wine & Spirits Competition]. While still working in financial services in the City, Lindsay became WSET Diploma qualified. That parallels my wine career, so I found a kindred spirit. Lindsay created Wines With Attitude in March 2014. It was born out of her disappointment when buying wines in supermarkets and via mail-order wine clubs. She finds the frequency of poor quality one-dimensional wines shocking. I do too. She has eighty or so wines online, mostly in the £12-£45 price range, mainly from artisanal wine producers. The idea is to help wine-lovers drink better, though not necessarily more expensively. Hence I thought I’d try Wines With Attitude out with my own money and without asking for any favours. It wasn’t mystery shopping, but the proof of the pudding, as they say, is in the eating. Firstly, the Wines With Attitude website is easy to navigate. The wines easy to search for by country, region, grape, and style. Most importantly, there’s plenty of great wines too; from classic styles to curious grapes. Importantly, all are ready to drink, though many will continue to improve. Each has good descriptions, customer reviews and hints on food matching. The minimum order is six bottles, but you can mix and match them. There’s even a single-bottle gift service for that special someone. The road test Buying is easy and secure thanks to SagePay and Trustwave [now sperceded by WooPayments and Stripe]. I particularly like their privacy policy and that the bottle prices include Duty and VAT. Unlike some! Delivery is free to most mainland UK on orders over £200.00. Otherwise, it’s £15.00. If you live in their vicinity (Potters Bar in Hertfordshire) then delivery is free. My advice is not to be put off by delivery costs. London City Bond keep all the wines in storage. Not only does that guarantee that wine storage conditions are top-notch, but it also means a high-quality delivery service too. Beware online merchants that keep stocks in their spare bedroom and cut delivery charges by skimping on quality. It won’t seem like a bargain if you need to deal with breakages or rubbish delivery times. I received my tracked wine order the next day. That exceeded my expectations, and I didn’t get any special treatment. My bottles were also reassuringly well wrapped. I’ve had crummy experiences with damaged orders from others in the past, but not here. Wines With Attitude also have a weekly Newsletter, (a good way to keep up with new wines coming in and regular offers), a Blog, and even an App coming soon; Android on the Google Play Store
A day in the life of a reluctant model
A DAY IN THE LIFE OF A RELUCTANT…MODEL! In my personal life I have always been the first to shy away from publicity, keeping a low profile on social media and hiding behind others when the cameras are out. How things have changed since setting up Wines With Attitude. After an audio podcast with e-commerce guru Chloe Thomas late last year, I have now even braved the cameras and feature in the March issue of Woman & Home. What an experience! The focus of the article was women who have moved out of careers in the large corporate world to set up their own small businesses, the aim to provide inspiration to others. Although I have told the story of my journey – from heading up a corporate client relationship management team in the City to selling wine online – many times before I was quite nervous about my interview. I needn’t have been as journalist, Samantha Downes, soon put me at ease. I can still recall clearly the moment of my epiphany mentioned in the article – my “Plan B moment” which set me off on the track of gaining the WSET Diploma in Wine & Spirits and sowing the seeds for the business. The thought of the next step – the photo shoot for the article or glam shoot as W&H called it in November – was the most painful for me because of my uncomfortable relationship with the camera. For the W&H team however – picture editor, photographer, stylists and hair & make-up ladies – it was all in a day’s work. It was more relaxing than I had anticipated – all decisions re outfit, hair, make-up, the general “look” and even the poses were all made for me. Fortunately the three of us featured were all available on the same day – a greater degree of flexibility is one advantage of working for yourself – so we had the chance to meet face-to-face and have our photo taken together. We had not met before the shoot but immediately clicked, having so much in common; we have met up since that day, laughed at the thought that we no longer have any stress in our working lives and continue to share our connections and our experiences of developing our businesses. We are already looking forward to our next catch-up. Through her company, Mosami, Sarah Greenaway, works with talented British designers to create contemporary and unique jewellery with timeless style and elegant design. Each beautifully crafted piece is mindfully sourced from small and artisanal businesses that genuinely care about their people and environment so you can wear it in the knowledge it is doing good for the people who made it. It was inspiring listening to Sarah’s story and her passion for ethically produced jewellery – Mosami is proud to be one of only ten jewellers in the world to pioneer Fairtrade silver. She really gave me food for thought. Jennifer is making a huge splash in the petite fashion world with her brand, Jennifer Anne. Having struggled when she was a City lawyer to find stylish clothing designed exclusively for petite women, Jennifer decided to create her own range despite having no experience in the fashion business. Each piece is meticulously and creatively designed with everything in proportion specifically for the smaller figure; and everything is made in the UK using high quality fabrics. Any petite-sized working ladies looking for smart, tailored outfits will find inspiration in her collection. I hope we do provide some inspiration. A big thank you to Woman & Home for bringing us together! P.S. Several people have asked me about the boots – they are from L K Bennett! Cheers! I am passionate about good quality wine and set up Wines With Attitude to share that passion with other wine lovers. If you’re feeling sociable why not follow me on social media or share my blog with others? Facebook Linkedin Instagram Pinterest independent producers personally chosen especially for you
Lower Carbon Footprint with Lighter Wine Bottles
LOWER CARBON FOOTPRINT WITH LIGHTER WINE BOTTLES Reducing the weight of wine bottles is a small but relatively easy way to reduce wine’s carbon footprint. This blogpost looks at why some wine bottles are so heavy, how light they could safely become and the obstacles on the path to lightweight wine bottles for the wine industry. In the face of climate change, the wine industry like others has been undergoing a slow but steady transformation for several years in order to reduce its carbon footprint. Great strides have been made in the vineyards and in wineries especially in the mid-range and premium areas of the market but attention is now turning to the bigger problems of packaging and transportation which together are responsible for about 50% of the carbon footprint of wine. The focus for many within the industry – mainly because it is considered a quick win – is reducing the weight of wine bottles. HOW HEAVY ARE WINE BOTTLES? As regular readers of my newsletters will know, heavy wine bottles are a real bugbear of mine; I just don’t see the need and feel it is such a waste especially as many of the heaviest seem to come from New World countries and therefore have to travel long distances to reach the UK market. It is believed that the average weight of empty still wine bottles is about 550g; in my very unscientific experiment over the last few weeks, I reached a very similar conclusion with the heaviest bottle weighing in at a phenomenal 985g, yes, almost 1kg before wine is added, which would make a case of 12 full bottles weigh almost 21kg. You have to have sympathy for warehouse operatives and couriers that have to lift such heavy loads on a regular basis. WHY ARE WINE BOTTLES SO HEAVY? Champagne and sparkling wine bottles need to be strong enough to contain the pressure from the bubbles but the focus in this blogpost is on still wine bottles and they don’t have the same excuse for heavy bottles. It used to be widely believed that heavier bottles contained wine of a better quality and without doubt many brands helped to spread that belief but it is quite simply a myth. Some wine producers, brand managers and sommeliers use the related excuse that consumers expect a heavy bottle but there is of course very little if any data to support that and, as consumers are becoming much more aware of climate change and sustainability, that argument doesn’t hold much weight – if you excuse the pun. In fact, whilst one of the main drivers for reducing the weight of wine bottles is the environment and a second is reducing costs, a third driver is the number of consumers becoming more interested in more sustainable and lower carbon products generally. Glass is still the best container for wine as it is inert but current thinking is that for wines that are meant for quick consumption (within 1 to 2 years) or in small formats, alternative packaging may be the answer (and that’s the subject of a future blogpost). In an ideal world glass would therefore just be used for wines that are meant to age in bottle for several years. Nevertheless, those glass bottles need not be so heavy. Bottles only need to be strong enough to prevent breakages which mainly occur on the filling line and in transportation. WHAT IS THE OPTIMUM WEIGHT FOR WINE BOTTLES? What the optimum weight for wine bottles should be is a difficult question to answer as there are other considerations like bottle shape and secondary packaging to consider. Apparently Burgundy bottles are much easier to make lightweight than Bordeaux bottles which have more defined shoulders and could be as light as 350g without the need for additional packaging to prevent breakages in transit. It is clear though that the whole supply chain needs to be taken into account in order to find the optimum weight. The lowest weight that is believed to be achievable for glass wine bottles is believed to be about 350g, down from an average of about 550g currently. The good news is that experimentation with these lighter bottles has not required any changes to production lines and nor have producers who use lighter bottles had negative customer feedback. In a debate on the subject at London Wine Fair 2023 Nigel Greening, proprietor of Felton Road wines, said that since using 417g bottles for five years, they have had no pushback at all from customers and no decline in sales which suggest that customers have accepted the new format without question. There is already an example in the drinks industry in the UK because, as long ago as 2007, many spirits producers agreed to reduce the weight of their bottles from 525g to 320g and that has been accepted by the market. Several large retailers in the UK are in the process of signing an accord to move to wine bottles weighing 420g or less by the 2027 vintage. 420g is also the weight that state-controlled wine importing organisations in Canada are using as the maximum they will buy. That figure seems to be a good starting point. One simple solution to reduce the weight of bottles would be to shorten the neck of wine bottles. This is already something that is being done with screwcap-topped bottles but it is more difficult with bottles sealed with a cork. Other suggestions are to reduce or do away with the punt and simply to reduce the thickness of the glass. THE CHALLENGES TO REDUCING WINE BOTTLE WEIGHTS The biggest challenge, as with most things, is encouraging people to change their mindsets and some of the traditional practices within the industry and this would need to come from the wine producers, wine associations or appellations to brand managers, logistics companies, retailers and consumers. For example, some wine regulators or appellations are very prescriptive about the size, weight and shape of wine